Friday, March 6, 2009

The tale of the two Bangkoks


The tale of the two Bangkoks, the one I know and the one Daniel introduced me to. If you have the money there is an unbelievable magical Bangkok. Last night we went to Bua in the State Tower. It was probably the most impressive bar I have ever seen in my life and when we talk about high society, this would be the definition of it!

The State Hotel is near the river. When you pull up in the cab about three service men greet you at the door and escort you to the elevators where you are whisked upstairs to one of three of four outdoor and indoor bars. We decided to go to the very top. When we walked out on the deck, there was a breathtaking view of Bangkok beneath us. There were about 50 stairs leading down to the bar. At an upper part of the bar there was a cool jazz band playing with an American black singer. Every other bar in Bangkok goes with the standard Pilipino band.

Down below about 64 floors, you could see the twinkling lights of Bangkok as well as the Chao Praya River. Naturally, Daniel could point out everything to me including which direction we were facing. Even the taxi drivers do not know the direction they are driving. Even though I have almost lived here for two years now and Daniel probably a total of two weeks, he knows more than me.

I am used to the Bangkok below the skyline. The dirty markets, the pollution, the smells of the open charcoal hearths, the heat of the city smacking you in the face, the uneven roads and people sleeping on the streets. At the “Bua” you do not even get the heat. There is such a cooling breeze at this height that seems to never end.

Daniel also introduced me to the Meridien Hotel in the Patpong area, about 50 meters from Patpong but light years away in terms of everything it stands for. At the Meridien we were greeted by the Dutch head of food and beverages who unctuously greeted us, described the various foods on the menu and then instructed about 3 servers to cater to our every whim. When I asked for more bread sticks, the chef came out to tell me there were no more in that shape, but would I accept a different shape made with the same dough? A little different than the old women on the street who pull out their chairs at night and serve everyone from the same bowl!

Even last night, thanks to my friend Jerry, we found a nice Thai restaurant. Across the street there was a very sophisticated “spa”. When Daniel encouraged us to look inside, the spa “treatment” was something like 1000 baht. We were immediately served tea and had the elegant (ladyboy) looking after us and calling us by name. A little different from the spa at most street corners where you go in, lie down on a thin mattress with dozens of other patrons only separated by a thin curtain and the masseuse just gets to work. No tea, no greeting by name and no perfume in the air and the fee is more like 250 baht then 1000.

Even Ayyutya was different when I went with Daniel. Even though I visited all of the temples last year when I went with a Thai family who took along everyone but the grandmother (who was busy preparing our evening meal). Here we seemed to find the most elegant temple that even had air conditioning inside!

I am off to Singapore in about five minutes, but I know that when I get back, I will never again see the Bangkok Daniel introduced me to unless or until he comes back.

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