Because of the state of anarchy in Thailand, I figured the airport take-over may never end and I needed to get back to Thailand to pay my bills (really to get my laundry done!). I looked at a map ,theoretically, and it looked like Vientiane was the closest city to Thailand where I could potentially take a bus to Bangkok. Actually, I just asked a travel agent in Hanoi who offered various possibilities but this was the flight that was available, if truth be known.
I am now back home and just went to buy milk. As usual, people are rushing off to work, stores are operating and where I live it is perfectly normal. However, I did buy a Bangkok Post and the opposition party says that if they are not pleased with the new government they will occupy the airport again. I am struck by the audacity of the army who obviously have the support of the middle class or some pretty high ranking individuals. In fact, when I saw news reports, the protesters were arresting various police at the airport. Can you imagine this happening in any western country?
Anyway, I digress. I wanted to talk about Laos, which lived up to its billing as a quiet backwater sort of place. Since I arrived at about 8 pm, I figured I may as well spend the day in Vientiane, the capital and take the night train to Bangkok from Nong Kai across the border in Thailand. I dreamed of the kind of experience Sylvia had in India but it was not to be. The train was full, probably with protesters coming down to Bangkok to stir up trouble. In Issan, the poorest province, they are huge supporters of the government in power and they will be the ones wearing the red shirts you see on television. I was sure, by the way, to take off my red jacket when I got off the bus in Bangkok. I will not be wearing red or yellow anytime soon, except maybe tomorrow since it is the king’s birthday and I may want to show support for the king.
In many ways, Vientiane reminded my of Pnom Penh, another city on the banks of a different river. Vientiane is right on the Mekong, which you might picture as being a powerful river providing a beautiful backdrop to this city. However, the river is quite dry with a huge sand bar in the middle and not beautiful at all, in my opinion. Judge for yourself when you look at the pictures. At night, there were stalls selling the usual “hazerai” on the riverbank and people eating and drinking overlooking the river but I did not find it beautiful or romantic in any way.
The next morning, my first and last day here, I walked out of my hotel and offered the first tuk tuk driver $10 for showing me around from 9 am till 4 pm. He eagerly accepted my money. I did not ask him where we were going and he did not ask what I wanted to see. It turned out, to give you some idea of this city, that after showing me the requisite four sites, he dropped me off at the market at 11:30 and insisted on receiving his money.
(I gave it to him). However bad the stock market is, I assume he needs the money more than me.
I saw the two key Wats ,a sacred Stupa which is the symbol of Laos and the Patuxai or Victory Monument. Victory for what I am not sure since Laos seems to be the whipping boy for south east Asia. Needless to say, the most interesting time for me was after he dropped me off and I was able to meet the people. I loitered around the market, went into a bookstore, had lunch at a wonderful French restaurant by a fountain that was so peaceful, sauntered into a museum and so on. I know that what is important on trips is not the monuments which are just that…bricks and mortar which symbolize important things in the life of the nation. Since I do not know the nations I am visiting, I would much rather meet the people and learn from them.
What I did discover was that the Laotians are really a quiet, peaceful people. The absence of horns was better than I could possibly imagine. I just could not believe the peace and serenity after Hanoi. Now I know why one of the tortures performed is constant noise. It is very stressful and in truth was one of the key reasons, other than laundry, that I wanted to get back to Bangkok so badly.
Have a look at the pictures if you are in to monuments. I won’t have to bother describing what I saw, which in truth, had little meaning for me. The bus ride was a bus ride and now I am back in Bangkok to do what?....swim, have lunch, go to the bank and help celebrate the king’s birthday tomorrow. My camera batteries are repowered!
I am now back home and just went to buy milk. As usual, people are rushing off to work, stores are operating and where I live it is perfectly normal. However, I did buy a Bangkok Post and the opposition party says that if they are not pleased with the new government they will occupy the airport again. I am struck by the audacity of the army who obviously have the support of the middle class or some pretty high ranking individuals. In fact, when I saw news reports, the protesters were arresting various police at the airport. Can you imagine this happening in any western country?
Anyway, I digress. I wanted to talk about Laos, which lived up to its billing as a quiet backwater sort of place. Since I arrived at about 8 pm, I figured I may as well spend the day in Vientiane, the capital and take the night train to Bangkok from Nong Kai across the border in Thailand. I dreamed of the kind of experience Sylvia had in India but it was not to be. The train was full, probably with protesters coming down to Bangkok to stir up trouble. In Issan, the poorest province, they are huge supporters of the government in power and they will be the ones wearing the red shirts you see on television. I was sure, by the way, to take off my red jacket when I got off the bus in Bangkok. I will not be wearing red or yellow anytime soon, except maybe tomorrow since it is the king’s birthday and I may want to show support for the king.
In many ways, Vientiane reminded my of Pnom Penh, another city on the banks of a different river. Vientiane is right on the Mekong, which you might picture as being a powerful river providing a beautiful backdrop to this city. However, the river is quite dry with a huge sand bar in the middle and not beautiful at all, in my opinion. Judge for yourself when you look at the pictures. At night, there were stalls selling the usual “hazerai” on the riverbank and people eating and drinking overlooking the river but I did not find it beautiful or romantic in any way.
The next morning, my first and last day here, I walked out of my hotel and offered the first tuk tuk driver $10 for showing me around from 9 am till 4 pm. He eagerly accepted my money. I did not ask him where we were going and he did not ask what I wanted to see. It turned out, to give you some idea of this city, that after showing me the requisite four sites, he dropped me off at the market at 11:30 and insisted on receiving his money.
(I gave it to him). However bad the stock market is, I assume he needs the money more than me.
I saw the two key Wats ,a sacred Stupa which is the symbol of Laos and the Patuxai or Victory Monument. Victory for what I am not sure since Laos seems to be the whipping boy for south east Asia. Needless to say, the most interesting time for me was after he dropped me off and I was able to meet the people. I loitered around the market, went into a bookstore, had lunch at a wonderful French restaurant by a fountain that was so peaceful, sauntered into a museum and so on. I know that what is important on trips is not the monuments which are just that…bricks and mortar which symbolize important things in the life of the nation. Since I do not know the nations I am visiting, I would much rather meet the people and learn from them.
What I did discover was that the Laotians are really a quiet, peaceful people. The absence of horns was better than I could possibly imagine. I just could not believe the peace and serenity after Hanoi. Now I know why one of the tortures performed is constant noise. It is very stressful and in truth was one of the key reasons, other than laundry, that I wanted to get back to Bangkok so badly.
Have a look at the pictures if you are in to monuments. I won’t have to bother describing what I saw, which in truth, had little meaning for me. The bus ride was a bus ride and now I am back in Bangkok to do what?....swim, have lunch, go to the bank and help celebrate the king’s birthday tomorrow. My camera batteries are repowered!
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